Magnificent Markhal village of Talagang

Markhal is a remote village in Chakwals Talagang tehsil, located on the left bank of the Soan River, approximately 42 kilometres northwest of Talagang town. From the surrounding hills, one enjoys a beautiful view of the village and the Soan River. Its picturesque setting between the Soan River and the Qavala Nullah makes Markhal one of the most magnificent villages in the Talagang region. Mud-plastered houses juxtaposed against the hills and the river transform this village into a true marvel of Talagang.

Despite its natural beauty, the village faces challenges, including a lack of basic healthcare facilities and the absence of a higher secondary school for girls. Markhal is also noted for its shrines, historic mosque, and intricately carved tombstones, all reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the area.

### Visit to Markhal and the Jamia Masjid Noorani

I visited Markhal village with my friend Tariq Mehmood Malik, a historian and author familiar with the history and heritage of many villages in the region, many of which face significant economic challenges. While in Markhal, we interviewed numerous residents about the Jamia Masjid, local shrines, and tombstones.

During these interviews, I learned that the Jamia Masjid Noorani is the oldest mosque in the village. It was probably built around the time the village was founded. Originally a small mosque, it underwent renovations and expansion over time. According to Qari Umer Bilal Awan Mairvi, the current pesh-imam of the mosque, the mosque was rebuilt around 1930.

Stone brought from the nearby Markhal hill was carefully dressed and used in the mosque’s construction. The quarry, known locally as Kali Watey Wali Jagah, supplied this stone, which villagers transported to the site themselves. Two renowned masons from Markhal, Mian Muhammad and Baba Gul Muhammad, were responsible for constructing the mosque.

### Architectural Significance and Craftsmanship

Stone was the primary building material for most pre-Partition buildings across the villages in Talagang tehsil. Mosques, mansions, and temples in the area were all constructed from stone sourced from tributaries of the Soan River. Although the mosque has been rebuilt relatively recently, some original features remain intact.

The western boundary wall is part of the mosque’s original construction and was built using both small and large dressed and undressed stone slabs by Mistri Mian Muhammad and Mistri Baba Gul Muhammad.

One of the mosque’s original wooden doors also survives, decorated with geometric and floral patterns. Both the lower and upper sections feature geometric designs, while the upper part incorporates bell-shaped motifs. Such patterns are commonly found in carved wooden doors of several old havelis and mosques throughout the Pothohar region.

Similar patterns can be observed in stone-built mosques of Chakwal, such as those in Vahali and Haral villages of Choa Saidan Shah tehsil. These mosques were constructed by Mistri Sher Muhammad—the most celebrated mason in Chakwal district, who hailed from Takiya Shah Murad village near Khanpur and inspired many masons in both Jhelum and Chakwal.

Previously, Jamia Masjid Noorani had a wooden ceiling which was removed during reconstruction. Mosques built in the 19th and 20th centuries in Talagang often featured distinctive wooden doors and ceilings. Some of the most remarkable wooden ceilings still exist in the Shahi Jamia Masjid of Khichi village, Jamia Masjid Farooq-i-Azam of Singwala village, and the Jamia Masjid of Jasial village.

### Notable Nearby Mosques with Wooden Ceilings

Khichi (also known as Khichian) is a historic settlement in Talagang tehsil, situated about 27 kilometres from Talagang city on the Talagang-Khushsab Road. The village is famous for its Mughal-era mosque, built in the second quarter of the 18th century. This mosque features remarkable inscriptions, wooden doors, pillars, and ceilings.

The main prayer hall of the mosque is covered by a wooden roof supported by decorative pillars adorned with floral designs. Four decorative pillars are attached to the eastern wall, and from remnants on the western wall, it appears there were an equal number of pillars there as well. These pillars feature single volutes carrying floral motifs.

Similar wooden ceilings and pillared halls exist in the Jamia Masjid of Chawli in Chakwal and the Jamia Masjid in Maria Sharif in Pindi Gheb.

Jasial is another Talagang tehsil village notable for its magnificent Jamia Masjid, which showcases a remarkable painted wooden ceiling reflecting the mastery of Talagang’s craftsmen.

Jamia Masjid Farooq-i-Azam in Singwala village is also well known for its exceptional paintings and woodwork. This mosque was built by Mistri Sirajuddin, a famous mason from Pachnand village in Lawa tehsil.

Such wooden ceilings were commonly used in stone-built mosques constructed in villages along the Soan River and its tributaries. While much of this exquisite woodwork has been documented, many mosques have been renovated or rebuilt over time, resulting in the removal of most wooden ceilings.

### Skilled Stone Carvers and Tombstones

The masons of Markhal were not only builders but also skilled stone carvers. The tombstones in Markhal’s old village cemetery, located near the Government Girls Elementary School, bear testament to their fine workmanship.

The cemetery contains several tombstones and cenotaphs marked with slabs on their northern and southern sides, featuring various floral and geometric designs. Particularly striking are the depictions of the musalla (prayer rug) and lota (ewer). Some women’s graves even have carved combs.

Similar decorative gravestones can be found throughout many villages in Talagang tehsil. According to Sher Zaman Awan of Markhal, most of these tombstones were engraved by Mistri Mian Muhammad, Mistri Baba Gul Muhammad, and Mistri Nur Akhmat.

### Shrines and Spiritual Heritage

Markhal has a total of four shrines, two of which are located in the cemetery near the school. The most popular shrine belongs to Baba Pir Budhey Shah Hamdani.

Qari Umer Bilal Awan Mairvi shared that Baba Pir Budhey Shah Hamdani came from Chakrala village in Mianwali around 1925. This information was passed down from his father, Fazl Ilahi, who was 97 years old when he passed away in 2018. Fazl Ilahi had deep knowledge of the village’s history, shrines, masons, and other heritage details, including those related to Hindu and Sikh shrines.

Though Baba Pir Budhey Shah Hamdani lived in the village for only four years before his death, the residents of Markhal insisted that he be buried there. Despite his descendants’ wish to take his body back to Chakrala for burial, they agreed to leave him in Markhal, respecting the villagers’ wishes. A beautiful tomb was built over his grave.

His annual urs is held every March and features qawwali performances, as well as various traditional sports and games such as bull racing and kabaddi.

### Kabaddi Legends and Sufi Connections

The village has produced two notable kabaddi players: Baba Sanwal Khan and Malik Jehangir Khan. Baba Sanwal Khan was a renowned kabaddi player and a devoted follower of the Maira Sharif darbar in Pindi Gheb. Maira Sharif is famous for the shrine of Khwaja Ahmad, a deputy of Pir Pathan (d. 1850).

Many residents of Markhal follow Khwaja Ahmad Mairvi. Another notable disciple of Hazrat Sani (d. 1931), the first sajjada nashin of the Maira Sharif darbar, was Haji Suba Khan.

To this day, many followers of the Maira Sharif darbar identify with the suffix ‘Mairvi’ as an indication of their Sufi affiliation. Maulvi Ahmed Mairvi was a disciple of Khawaja Faqir Muhammad Abdullah Mairvi (d. 1975). Additionally, Qari Umer Bilal Awan Mairvi is a follower of Sahibzada Farooq Ahmed, the current sajjada nashin of the darbar of Khwaja Ahmad Mairvi.

### Other Shrines and Tribal Composition

Another shrine in the cemetery is dedicated to Shah Chan Gilani. The Awan tribe forms the majority of Markhal’s population, with a few households of Gilani Sadat residing in the village.

The grave of Baba Pir Charag Shah Gilani is located in an enclosure along with the graves of his ancestors and descendants, marking an important spiritual site for the local community.

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Markhal remains a village rich in history, architecture, and spiritual heritage, though it continues to face ongoing economic and infrastructural challenges. Preserving its historic sites and addressing its social needs are vital for maintaining its unique cultural identity within the Talagang region.
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