**Wedding Dress Designer Charles Dieujuste: Crafting Heritage and Innovation in Manhattan**
*Photos by Erin Schaff / The New York Times*
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**New York —** As a child growing up in Port-au-Prince, Haiti, in the 1990s, bridal designer Charles Dieujuste often used his older sister to model his early fashion creations.
“I started making her paper hula skirts,” Dieujuste, 37, recalled.
From paper, he progressed to chiffon. “I had this vibrant green chiffon fabric I found,” he said, before advancing to various blends and silks. Throughout these changes, his guiding inspiration remained rooted in family and heritage.
In 2020, he created **Scorcesa**, a bridal brand inspired by the women in his family and his Haitian roots. The name is a portmanteau of his grandmothers’ names, meant to “weave the family line together,” Dieujuste explained.
The brand initially focused on courthouse weddings, embracing a minimalist aesthetic influenced by his mother’s example. “She got married in the chicest way possible — in a double-breasted jacket with a pleated skirt,” he said.
During 2020, when many brides opted for smaller, nontraditional weddings, this approach contributed to Scorcesa’s early success. Though Dieujuste admits he initially had doubts — thinking, “There is no newness in bridal, why am I even going toward it?” — he has since embraced the challenge.
Today, Scorcesa offers a variety of bridal suits and colorful gowns designed for the nontraditional bride. In an industry that has largely shifted overseas, Dieujuste is committed to keeping **Scorcesa**’s production and manufacturing in the United States.
All appointments—from the button maker to the trimming company—are conveniently located within walking distance of his garment district studio, a loft on the 15th floor of a 1920s building. The sixth floor of the building houses all the production facilities, creating a tightly knit creative community alongside costume designers and a theater-scoring company.
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### A Passion Rooted in Family Tradition
Dieujuste was born in Port-au-Prince to a mother who worked at a large textile company. When young, he spent days with his maternal aunt, a seamstress who primarily catered to women.
“I would play around on her sewing machine,” he said. “Sometimes she wanted me to do some stitching for her, and sometimes she allowed me to cut fabric.”
Watching his aunt craft garments inspired him greatly. “It was invigorating to realize she was able to make something happen—in real time,” he said.
At age nine, Dieujuste moved to Fort Lauderdale, Florida, where his father lived. A summer visit at 13 to relatives in New York marked a turning point.
“That’s when I made the transition,” he said, soon deciding to settle in New York full time.
However, Dieujuste found himself yearning for the tailored clothing traditions of his youth. “Back home, our clothes were always tailored — we were always getting things made,” he explained.
In contrast, in the U.S., “it’s a lot easier for folks to just go to the department store and purchase something.” Though convenient, he missed the experience of long afternoons spent at the tailor. “That’s what ultimately sparked the whole thing in me.”
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### Taking a Big Leap of Faith
On a mild August day, Dieujuste prepared for bridal week in his studio, dressed casually in jeans, a denim shirt, and a blue woven cap.
“I am taking a big leap of faith because of tariffs, the economy, and everything,” he said, holding up a scrap of silk crepe — a fabric that has surged from $17 to $26 per yard.
Profits vary month to month. (Scorcesa gowns range in price from approximately $550 to $2,600.)
At the center of the room stood a single mannequin draped in an unfinished muslin. The completed gown from his Heritage collection, debuting at bridal week, is powder blue with a sweetheart neckline, a high-low skirt, and cutouts — deliberately breaking from traditional bridal norms.
“You don’t have to follow traditions. If you want to experience color, we have that for you,” Dieujuste said.
The powder-blue gown echoes the style worn by actress Chloë Grace Moretz at her wedding in August.
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### Honoring Heritage and Representation
Scorcesa’s Fashion Show, also called “Heritage,” took place on October 15 at Dieujuste’s studio. The collection wove together influences from the past and present, nodding to the 1980s with clean lines and menswear touches.
At the heart of “Heritage” are the multifaceted women in Dieujuste’s family and his Haitian legacy.
Another motivation for participating in bridal week this year was to address representation.
“You rarely see any designers of color,” Dieujuste noted. “From my experience, there aren’t enough of us, and I think that’s ultimately due to resources.”
He looks up to bridal designer Amsale for guidance on navigating the bridal industry as a Black-owned business.
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### Contributing to Romance and Legacy
Beyond honoring his family, crafting bridal gowns fulfills Dieujuste’s desire to participate in a cultural celebration he has yet to experience personally.
“I’ve never been in a relationship,” he said. “Which is kind of weird, but I’ve always championed those who are in love and want to celebrate love.”
Working with brides, their mothers, and other loved ones allows him to contribute to romance and family history.
“This is a garment you’re creating for someone that is going to go down in their history and their family’s dynamic,” Dieujuste explained. “One day, their little girl will say, ‘Well Mom, you really did a great job on your wedding dress. I would love to wear it again.’”
The close relationships his aunt cultivated with her bridal clients serve as a model for the role he aspires to play.
While sometimes testing his patience—“there’s a lot of back and forth” as some customers take time to make decisions—Dieujuste cherishes the privilege of being part of such meaningful moments.
“I relish being part of the celebration, being part of the narrative, being part of a legacy,” he said.
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**About Misty Copeland:**
Breaking barriers as the first Black female principal dancer with American Ballet Theatre, Misty Copeland is now making dance more accessible for children of color through her nonprofit.
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